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There are a lot of dog lovers out there in the world who really love their dogs as members of their families - some as much as their kids. I have known many people who celebrate their dog’s birthdays with as great joy and fanfare as others do their children’s. There is nothing wrong in that. It is actually heart touching to see such love and bond between man and animal. But there is one big problem in these types of situations. What do you get as a dog lover gift? What would give joy to both your friend and his dog at the same time? The best bet for a dog lover gift is, in my opinion, a dog toy.

There are a great variety of dog toys available in the market today and one can definitely get a good choice both in price and novelty. There are rubber toys which are designed to exercise the dog’s jaws by chewing it, as well as fetch-me rubber balls which can entertain both dog lover and the dog for interminable stretches of time.

Then there are raw-hide toys which most of the times come with meat flavor for added attraction. These serve a dual purpose - the dog can actually eat it in time and it is reinforced with vitamins at time (so it is healthy) and it is a favorite play thing for all dogs without any exception.

Among other toys designed as dog lover gift are also soft toys and vinyl toys. You will be surprised to learn that dogs actually love to cuddle and play with soft toys, sometimes just as much as kids do. Some dogs carry their soft toys in their mouth during the day as a child would carry their toys, while some love to snuggle against theirs.

Keep a day or two for window shopping so you can see and choose the best possible dog lover gift for your four-legged friend. In this way you could match the toy better both to the nature of the dog and the pleasure of its master.

David Cashman is an online dog expert,he specializes in dog health. For more info please visit Dog Lover Gift…

he fascinating behavior of Lovebirds make them among the
most interesting pet bird.

Lovebirds are so named from the way they sit close to each
other, not because they are in love with each other. Lovebirds
can and do mate for life, but it doesn’t happen every time.

Lovebirds are social birds and should be kept in pairs.

They are very active and curious birds and can even be quite
aggressive at times. They can chatter all day long with a
sometimes very shrill sound.

Lovebirds are native to Africa and a few nearby islands. In
their native habitat, they are found usually in small flocks
of 10 to 20 pairs.

Lovebirds are of the class Aves, the genus Agapornis and
members of the Psittaciformes, or family of parrots.

Agapornis comes from the Greek words: Agape meaning love,
and ornis meaning bird.

Lovebirds typically live from 10 to 15 years depending a
great deal on the care they are given, some lovebirds have
been known to live to be 20 in captivity.

There are 9 species of lovebirds, of which 8 are available
as pets. They are not related to the South American parrotlets.

Sexually Dimorphic

1. Abyssinian Lovebird
2. Redfaced Lovebird
3. Madagascar Lovebird (Grayheaded)

Sexually Monomorphic (Similar)

1. Black cheeked Lovebired (Blackfaced)
2. Fischer’s Lovebird
3. Masked Lovebird (Black Masked or Yellow collared)
4. Nyasa Lovebird (Lilian’s)
5. Peachfaced Lovebird (Rosyfaced)

Characterized by Eye Rings:

Without Eye Rings:

1. Madagascar
2. Redfaced
3. Peachfaced
4. Abyssinian

With Eye Rings

1. Masked
2. Fischers
3. Nyasa
4. Black cheeked

What To Look For In A Healthy Lovebird

1. Active, alert and curious disposition
2. 4 well formed toes, 2 forward and 2 backward, nails must
be complete
3. Bright, round eyes
4. Nostrils clear of discharge
5. Feathers lay tight against the body
6. Smooth beak that closes completely

What To Avoid In A Healthy Lovebird

1. A bird that sits huddled in a corner or on the floor
2. A bird with feathers fluffed up
3. Deformed toes
4. Vent fouled with feces or badly stained
5. Signs of weeping or runny eyes
6. Excessive plucking or excessive missing of feathers
7. Bald spots
8. A squeak, wheezing or other abnormality when breathing
9. Nervous behavior
10. Lethargic behavior
11. Dull or lifeless feathers
12. A bird too large for it’s normal size (birds can and do
get fat)
13. Nasal discharge

If you are a first time or novice lovebird owner, don’t choose
a bird that you think may be sick, choose the healthiest bird
you can find. Many sicknesses can be cured, but better to leave
these birds for experienced owners. Don’t buy a sick lovebird
because you feel sorry for it.

If possible get a certificate of health from the breeder or
pet shop guaranteeing that a replacement will be made if the
lovebird becomes sick or won’t breed.

Lovebirds are not rare, there are a lot of them around to choose
from. So take your time and select only birds that you really
like the coloring and personality of.

Keeping Lovebirds as Pets

Lovebirds should be kept in pairs, one female and one male.
They very much enjoy each others company, although don’t
be alarmed if they have occasional spats with each other.

If a pair of lovebirds constantly fight, then it’s best to
find each of them another mate. If you’re buying birds from
a breeder, make sure the breeder will exchange birds if
they are not compatable.

As a general rule, only one pair of birds should be kept
per cage. Keep one or more cages far enough apart from each
other so they do not allow birds to be able to peck at each
other.

When introducing new birds to a home with pre-existing birds,
the new birds may not always be welcomed readily.

Lovebird Behavior

Lovebirds need exercise out of their cages daily.

Remember: Birds Love to Fly

Being cooped up in a cage all the time is not healthy for
them, physically or emotionally. Birds kept in a cage will
often sit on a perch and flap their wings incessantly.

Lovebirds need between 10 to 12 hours of rest a night. Do
not keep your birds in rooms with televisions or other noisy
devices when it’s time for the birds to roost. Total darkness
is not advised either, use a small 7 watt bulb in the room
to provide enough night light for the bird to find it’s
perch and drink or feed if needed.

Keep all electrical wires, extension cords, etc, completely
hidden and unavailable to the birds.

Never use Kerosene or similar type heaters that give off fumes.
Coal and wood stoves are no nos. No matter how hard you may’
try, a wood burner will emit fumes and smoke into your home
that may kill your lovebird. If you have a home with a wood
burner completely isolate a room only for your birds and
use an infrared or electric heater.

A fairly constant 80 degrees Farenheit temperature is about
right for lovebirds.

It’s not a good idea to keep finches, cockatiels, rosellas,
or budgies with lovebirds

About the Author

Petey, Petunia & Tweet Tweet
Copyright ©

For more really cool info on all aspects of Pet & Wild
Bird Care visit our site and take advantage
of our extensive library of f r e e avian care tips &
fun info.

http://www.petcaretips.net/bird_care.html

Living way up here in the extreme temperatures in Montana, we are fairly sheltered from the flea and tick infestations that more moderate areas suffer from. However, with the steady increase of pet ownership across the country, awareness of the dangers of external parasites and the necessary treatment methods is vital.

Pet owners need to understand the importance of controlling these pests, as can several diseases are associated with fleas and ticks: Bubonic Plague, Murine Typhus, Lyme Disease, and Francisella Tularensis, to name just a few. It is easy to see that the pet’s comfort is not the only issue here- safety and health risks are a factor as well.

For pet owners, it is a difficult and daunting task to choose an effective, yet safe method to control these parasites. The most effective method is of course prevention. Every day new treatments and preventative methods are being developed. My favorite is spot-on treatments dispensed by a veterinarian. These are topically absorbed insecticides, which require minimal applications for maximum protection for your pet. Also, oral insecticides are fairly new to the scene, and are getting rave reviews as well.

If it is too late for prevention, treatment is the next option to explore. The first choice is choosing chemical pesticide or botanical. There is an endless bevy of flea and tick products available on the market. It is vital that pet owners arm themselves with knowledge about these products, as many of them contain deadly chemicals that, if not used properly, can be fatal to animals and humans as well.

Organophosphates, organochlorines, carbamates…these chemical groups all sound pretty ominous, and believe me, they are deadly. They can cause permanent side effects, extensive nerve damage, and even death in animals and the people applying them with just one improper use. And yet, they are readily available on any supermarket and discount store shelf for under $5. That is very scary.

These harmful chemicals are widely and openly dispensed, without necessary supervision or education, to the general public in many forms. Flea collars, sprays, powders, dusts, shampoos, room foggers, carpet treatments, the list goes on and on. Yes, these chemicals will in fact kill the parasites, but they just simply aren’t worth the risk.

That leaves us with the second, safer treatment option: botanical pesticides. These are natural products that are derived from various sources. Pyrethrin is a popular choice, derived from the chrysanthemum flower. It can be found in several safe parasite treatments. d-Limonene, a citrus byproduct that has a strong orange odor, is another option. It is extremely effective, and forms of it are used in several different household cleaners as well as pet products. Another newer product gaining popularity is neem seed extract, a powerful insect growth regulator, a feeding deterrent and repellent. Overall, all three of these natural products, when used properly, are non-toxic and biodegradable.

If you suspect that your pet is suffering from these parasites, please do not go out and buy a flea collar: they don’t work! They are usually a pet owner’s first choice because they are quick and easy. But the problem is that they only repel the fleas and ticks around the head area of the animal, instead of the entire body.

Instead of trying to choose a flea and tick treatment product on your own, contact your professional groomer or veterinarian for advice on how to proceed with the care and treatment of the animal. They can recommend the best, safest treatment options for your pet, as well as how to eliminate the pests in your home environment, etc. They can help you get your pet on an effective preventative plan to eliminate the dreaded flea and tick dilemma!

Shannon Lynnes Heggem is an international speaker with a strong background in the pet care industry.

In the 1990’s, she established an upscale boarding resort and grooming spa in Havre, Montana. She then founded the Fast Track Institute of Pet Careers, a vocational school focused on pet-related careers.

Shannon quickly became one of the top experts in the pet care industry, as an educator, business consultant, speaker, and contest judge. She was the first Certified Master Groomer in Montana, and went on to become a Certified Kennel Operator. Only four people in the world actually hold both of these certification titles!

In 1998, Shannon’s life was forever changed when she narrowly escaped death. She was viciously attacked in her kennel by a Rottweiler, and amazingly, survived.

Since then, Shannon has overcome incredible obstacles to continue her life’s journey. The trauma was a turning point for her; she has now dedicated her life to writing and speaking, to help motivate others to succeed beyond their own experiences.

Dear Adam:

[From a previous e-mail which questioned why I recommend that dog owners don’t try to train their dogs in a group class setting]

Yes, I understand about the imprint stages [two week stages from birth to 4 months of age in which a small amount of exposure will have a lasting affect on the dog’s socialization to it’s surroundings] but not everybody lives in the ideal world of getting their puppy at 6 to 8 weeks of age.

[The imprint stage when dogs learn dominant and subordinate behavior with other dogs. Missing this stage, or having a negative experience during this stage, can cause dog aggression later in life].

What are you then suggesting happens? There are a lot of people out there that don’t know the first thing about dog training. So, all of these theories are great but how would that help somebody that comes to you when their dog is a couple of years old and displays canine aggression?

Regards,
TB.

Dear TB:

Here’s the deal: I don’t have a lot of time to go into detail as this is a subject that could end up being another book. But to fix this type of thing, you need to:

#1: Establish yourself as the pack leader so that the dog respects you and what you say.

#2: Build a strong sit and down stay.

#3: Teach the dog that he must hold the positions around other dogs. It’s your responsibility to make sure that the other dogs do not jump on him.

#4: With some dogs, the aggression can only be controlled. Other dogs will get comfortable enough, over time being around other dogs, that it will be eliminated. It really depends on the dog.

#5: The problem with group classes is that there is too much going on for your dog to really learn. Plus, the 10-on-1 nature means that YOUR instruction is lacking. It’s a good environment if the dog is ALREADY TRAINED… as you can take advantage of the various distractions. [During the proofing stage, that is]. But for teaching the dog… no way!

And you don’t have to trust my opinion. Just look at the caliber of training that you’ll find with dogs that come out of group classes. They’re substandard compared to dogs and owners that have worked just a few sessions with a competent dog trainer.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the Author

Author, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!” which you can read more about at:
http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Canine nutrition has been the subject of much research in recent years. Since prepared dog food accounts for a greater volume of supermarket sales than any other single grocery item, the commercial incentive is tremendous. As a result, American dogs are the best fed in the world, probably the most expensively fed, and certainly the most often overfed.

Biologists describe the dog as a carnivorous mammal. But modern authorities say that his cohabitation with man has caused him to become like us, omnivorous. Dogs are remarkably adaptable to different kinds of diets, including diets that are high in vegetable content.

The dog’s digestive system is not exactly like ours. The general process is the same, but the timing is different. First of all, mastication is less important in canine digestion. The dog’s teeth and jaws are designed for tearing meat and grinding bones with amazing efficiency and up to 300 pounds of force. Dogs chew little and swallow rapidly. They cannot chew with their mouths closed.

The dog’s taste buds are situated under his tongue, but his food passes quickly, practically untasted, through the pharynx and esophagus into the stomach, where the principle digestive process takes place. The dogs gastric juices are much stronger than ours, allowing him to digest matter which would give us a severe stomach ache, to say the least.

Your dog’s stomach is very elastic, and can expand to a capacity of one pint in a small lap dog, while large dogs make room for 8 quarts of food. The gastric juices in his stomach are high in acid and food remains there longer than it does in ours. This is why they require a richer, more concentrated diet than we do. Digestion takes place mostly in the stomach, very little in the mouth.

The dog’s nutritional requirements are similar to ours. However, puppies, since they grow and mature faster than we do, need a richer diet than do babies, with more protein and less bulk. Baby food, except for all-meat products is unsuitable for puppies. Adult dogs need a balanced diet including proteins for body building, fails and carbohydrates for supplying energy and heat, bulk for elimination, vitamins and minerals to catalyze various body processes, and a total caloric intake that corresponds to individual living conditions, age, weight, metabolism, and activity.

Water is very important, representing an estimated 70 percent of the dog’s weight. Protein content can be provided by meat, fish, cheese, milk, and eggs. Fat is an important source of calories, valuable in cold climates, and during winter. It also helps to maintain a healthy coat and skin. Dogs housed out of doors may be given as much as 20 percent fat in their diet to provide calories and promote a heavy growth of fur, while 10-15 percent is sufficient for most pet dogs.

Carbohydrates include sugars and starches, both of which are sources of quick energy. Dogs assimilate sugar easily, although it is often an acquired taste. Their gastric juices are less efficient in digesting starches, unless they have been cooked very well. Commercially prepared dog biscuits are specially processed and enriched in order to fill the dog’s nutritional requirements. On the other hand, potatoes, white bread, treated rice, and pasta are not advisable for dogs, partly because of indigestibility, but mostly because they provide little to no nourishment.

In addition to starches, the cellulose that is found in greens and vegetables provides bulk and favors elimination. Green vegetables are actually indigestible to dogs, which eat grass for this very reason in order to purge themselves. If your dog has as obsession for grass, you might examine his diet to make sure that it agrees with him. Carrots and spinach provide useful vitamins and minerals, while cooked vegetables and greens in the diet of obese or inactive dogs can satisfy their hunger temporarily without providing fattening calories.

The principle canine vitamin requirements are those of the B group, and vitamins A, D, and E. Oddly enough, dogs do not need Vitamin C, because their body produces it naturally. Liver and milk are particularly rich in these essential vitamins. Carrots are a natural source of vitamin A, and whole wheat cereals supply the B group. Cod liver oil is the richest source of Vitamin D, essential for growing puppies, and adult dogs that don’t get a lot of sunshine.

Finally, there are the minerals, the most important of which are calcium and phosphorus, especially for growing puppies. The principal decision an owner has to make is whether to give his dog commercial dog food, a homemade diet plan, or a combination of the two.

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest dog carriers, dog beds, dog collars, and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at www.joncopets.com

Submitted with Article Distributor.

He’s been your equine partner for years now. You’ve perhaps ridden in
shows, through trails or even relocated across the country with your
horse. You’ve been friends a long time, and it may be hard to admit, but
you’ve noticed your horse is slowing down.

Don’t lose heart. Just like with people, advances in health care and
nutrition are helping horses live longer, more productive lives, well into
their senior years. But older horses do take a little extra care. Here’s a
few ways to keep your aging buddy doing his best.

1. Give him light, consistent work. Your horse may not be able to keep
up a workout routine for competitions, but he’s probably not ready to
retire either. Keep him at a reasonable fitness level and he’ll feel and
perform like a younger horse. The worst thing to do is let him get out of
shape and then ride him hard some weekend when he hasn’t been
ridden for months. That’s not fair to him and may spell trouble for you
later.

2. Make sure your horse has regular vet check-ups. Don’t neglect the vet
check-up even if your horse isn’t around many other horses anymore.
Keep him up-to-date on vaccinations, like any horse, and make sure
your vet begins looking for signs of arthritis or soundness issues.
Sometimes cortisone shots given early can not only provide relief for
aching joints, but can prevent further inflammation and stiffness later on.

Continued deworming is also important for the older horse. Horses more
than 20 years old may have intestinal scarring from worm damage that
occurred before modern larvicidal dewormers were available.

Have your veterinarian check your horse’s teeth at least once a year.
The older a horse gets, the more likely his teeth will be worn into sharp
points. They may even be wearing out completely.

3. Consider a senior feed. Older horses do not absorb as many
nutrients from their food as younger horses. Couple that with worn-out,
missing or damaged teeth, and many older horses have difficulty
keeping weight on, especially through the winter months. Several senior
feeds on the market today offer alfalfa-based pellets that are easy for
older horses to chew, swallow and digest.

Many times older horses choose to eat very little hay. The senior feed is
designed to cover all roughage requirements for the horse as well as
provide the ideal vitamin and mineral balance for the older horse. Also,
don’t feed your senior buddy with a younger, more aggressive horse.
You want to make sure he doesn’t have to fight for his fair share.

4. Consider feed supplements. If you’ve never used a feed supplement,
now may be the time. Talk to your veterinarian about what kind of
supplement might be best for your horse. Biotin is great for hooves and
coat. Other supplements can help with energy. Of course, glucosiamine
is the standard supplement to keep joints healthy and lubricated.

5. Give him attention. It’s easy to forget about a horse you can’t use as
much anymore, but if you can’t use him, maybe you should loan his
services to someone who can. Many older, experienced show horses
are great lesson horses. He could give a neighbor’s child a few lessons
a week or stand still while you teach children how to properly groom a
horse. He might be a great mount for a beginner rider, or an adult who
doesn’t want any surprises. You could still take him on the occasional
leisurely ride. Just don’t leave him untouched in a stall for days. At the
very least, give him a buddy and plenty of turnout time.

It may take a little extra time and money to care for your older horse, but
when you think back to all the years he’s given, you’ll probably agree
he’s worth it. With the proper care, many horses are living sound,
productive lives well into their 20s.

Diane Samson is a writer with The Lieurance Group, a
freelance writers cooperative in Kansas City, Missouri. Samson can
provide writing, reporting and editing services for magazines,
newspapers, corporate communications and especially animal
publications. Find out more about her writing services at http://www.lieurancegroup.blogspot.com. or email her at: dianesamson@birch.net

You may be asking, “When can I start agility training with my new puppy?” Puppies are always learning, so every time you are with your pup you can be playing and socializing with agility in mind. Always remember, if you can control your puppies environment, you can teach and train the behaviors you want, left on their own, even in a fenced yard, puppies will learn and develop behaviors that later we may want or need to extinguish.

One of the first behaviors we teach our pups is “Table” or “Box”. This behavior transfers to the agility pause table. But more than that, the table is the center and control point of our puppy training. We introduce pups and older dogs to the table set at a 12 inch height. If you have a very small pup you could use an 8 inch table, but even with bigger dogs we use the 12 inch table and not higher. To begin, lure pup up on a low pause table, treat him for getting on the table. Once the pup is comfortable getting up on the table, then lure the pup up to a sit. You can also lure to a down.

Next you want to work on distance to the table. If you have a person to help you you can use a white target plate on the table, take the pup and step back from the table about 3 feet. Have your helper make a noise to get the pup’s attention, and place a treat on the table. Release your pup to, “Go table.” The pup gets his reward only when getting up on the table. If you don’t have a helper, than place your treat in a covered container that will be recognized as a treat box for your pup. Leave the treat container on the table, step away from the table about 3 feet, face the table and say, “Go Table”.

If your pup is very young, you can hold him as you lift him off the table and move away from the table. If your pup is too big for you to hold then use a flatbuckle collar and light dragline for your pup.

Now introduce your jumps to your pup. But you are not going to use the jump bars yet. First you want your pup to go through or between the jump uprights. Set a jump about 4 feet away from your table. Take your pup to the other side of the jump. So you are lined up pup, jump, then table. You want to get your pups attention to the treat on the table, either with a helper or a treat container, release your pup to the table, “Go Table”. Let the pup run ahead of you, but go meet him at the table so that he can get his treat, praise him then offer him another treat for sitting on the table.

Progress with adding one extra jump at a time. Spacing the jumps about 3 feet apart. You are developing a jump chute that will lead the pup to the table. Remember your goal is to build the command, “Go” and “Table”. You are also teaching the pup to move out ahead of you, working away from you and getting comfortable working around tables and jumps. Your pup is getting familiar running through the jump uprights, but you are not focusing on having your pup jump.

With all your puppy training, have fun with your pup. Use all your puppies motivators, praise, toys, and food. It is up to you to be more interesting to your pup than all the other distractions out in the yard.

Brad Carlson is a dog trainer at Agility by Carlson. For more training details, visit our website at www.carlson-agility.com/

Are you thinking about dog obedience school? Do you know what to expect out of it? Do you know what it costs or where to find a good school?

If not, let me help take out some of the mystery of finding one to make sure you and your dog get the best experience you can.

If you have searched the web in this topic, you probably found some sites that are basically search engines within search engines, no real information about dog obedience schools. Or you might have found some obedience schools that were on the other side of the country. Needless to say, neither one was of much use.

Chances are you have a dog obedience school of some sort in your town, unless you’ve got a population of less than 20,000. In that event, you might need to opt for dog training videos or books, and I will go over some good resources for that later.

The first thing I want you to do is look for someone with proven experience. You can start in the yellow pages and look under “Dog Training” as opposed to “dog obedience school.”

Ask a LOT of questions. These people are going to be molding the mind of your impressionable pup and you want to know that it’s a good fit.

Ask things like:

What will the dog be taught?
What is the success rate?
What happens if you’re not satisfied
Will you be taught how to continue with your dogs new training?
What are their methods of correction when the dog disobeys?
Visit the facility too. Check it out. Meet the trainers and see how they act with people and dogs.

Ask if you can watch a training session or a video of a session so you get an idea of what your dog will be subjected to.

Don’t make a final decision on a dog obedience school until your dog has met the trainers. Dogs are extremely good judges of character.

For the most part, someone in this line of work is going to be a good person and a dog lover. Some, however, will be doing it just to get a paycheck and may not have your pal’s best interest in mind.

If your dog doesn’t like them… take another route.

You might want to consider the local 4-H club. 4-H is where I learned how to train my own dog as a child. It isn’t a dog obedience school in the traditional sense. It teaches kids how to train their dogs, or a friend’s dog. It’s a youth education program and it provides many facets of education, one of which is often dog training.

Read more about dog training videos if you would like an alternative to dog obedience school.

About the Author

Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site
Dog-Gifts-and-Toys-for-Dog-Lovers.com. Copyright 2004. All rights reserved.

It happens all too often. A family or cat friend gets adopted by a stray cat. And after a few weeks it turns out she’s pregnant.

In the US alone there must be millions of sweet but homeless cats. And many of them get pregnant several times a year. Nobody really knows why, but pregnant strays often adopt a family instead of the other way round. Maybe they search for support or a good and warm home for their kittens.

Now, perhaps you don’t have the space or time for a cat family. Or there’s another reason that makes it difficult to have these kittens. But you don’t want to throw this stray out. She’s expecting babies, isn’t she?!

Now what can you do?

You could take her to an animal shelter. That’s not always a good idea.

Don’t get me wrong: I value the work of animal shelters. In fact, I got my current cat from one of them, and I’m pretty sure the next will come from a shelter too. But some animal shelters reportedly put a pregnant stray to sleep. You’ll blame yourself forever if you hear the cat you brought in, was killed.

Other shelters will spay her. They’ve got a good reason for that. The kitten population is astronomical and the last an animal shelter wants is put five more homeless cats in this world.

But maybe you have objections against spaying a pregnant cat – after all, it’s abortion at the same time. Then a far better idea is bringing a pregnant stray to a local rescue group. In the US alone dozens of rescue groups are active. Not all of them, but many let the queen have her kittens, and search a home for them.

But in the end, perhaps the most satisfying alternative is to keep the cat yourself and let her give birth. Take good care of her. Have her examined by a vet to see if she’s in good health. And get the right information so you are prepared for complications.

And remember: strays are used to go wherever they want. So keep your doors closed. Otherwise she’ll adopt someone else.

About the Author

Marc de Jong runs an acclaimed web site on cats and is the author of the book How To Take Care Of Your Pregnant Cat, available through http://www.cat-pregnancy-report.com/pregnant-cat.html The book is filled with insider tips and tells you how your cat can deliver and raise a healthy litter.

Rabbits are one of the most popular pets, apart from dogs and cats. They look attractive, lovely, gentle, friendly and cute. They are easy to take care and undemanding in terms of care and housing. They will settle well either indoor or outdoor, at home.

There are 40 species of rabbits and hares worldwide. All domesticated rabbits are originated from European rabbits. The scientific name for domestic rabbit is Oryctolagus cuniculus.

Typically, domesticated rabbits weigh between 2.2-221lb (1-10kg). The domesticated rabbits can be fed on commercially produced rabbit food, pellets, hay, green food, root vegetables, tree bark, herbs and apple.

The gestation period of a rabbit is 31 days and the typical litter size ranges from 6-8 young. The lifespan varies with breed.

Keeping a rabbit as pet requires a good training system to prevent unnecessary destructions or hassle. For example, furniture and carpet chewing problems, pseudo pregnancy symptoms, litter problems, fights, behavioral problems, rabbit-house worries, sickness, fleas, predators and etc. Nevertheless, these challenges can be overcome when the owners have the knowledge and experience to deal with them. Thus, one of the recommended ways to acquire the important knowledge is to read widely and exchange practical information with experienced rabbit owners.

It is important to watch out for any abnormalities in your rabbits as rabbits are susceptible to various digestive ailments and other life-threatening diseases. For example, rabbits are vulnerable to myxomatosis and VHD viruses. These are the killer viruses!

There is no universal system of classification for rabbit breeds. Some popular breeds of rabbits include:

· Alaska
· American Fuzzy Lop
· American Sable
· Angora
· Belgian Hare
· Beveren
· Californian
· Champagne D’Argent
· Checkered Giant
· Chinchilla
· Dutch
· Dwarf Hotot
· English Lop
· Flemish Giant
· Florida White
· Harlequin
· Havana
· Himalayan
· Hotot
· Jersey Wooly
· Lilac
· Holland Lop
· Mini Lop
· Mini Rex
· Netherland Dwarf
· New Zealand
· Palomino
· Polish
· Rex
· Rhinelander
· Satin
· Silver
· Silver Fox
· Silver Marten
· Tan

www.geocities.com/rabbitcare_lover

About the Author

I am Amanda Gates and I have been a rabbit lover since young! In my eyes, rabbits are simply lovely, sweet, cute, soft and gentle. It is my hobby to care for my rabbits and I spend most of my free time doing research, collecting rabbit’s beautiful pictures and reading lots of books about rabbits. Currently, I have two rabbits, a Florida White and a Polish, named Barbie and Ken.