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The first stage of tire making is collecting raw materials and formulating rubber compounds. The raw materials used are rubber, oils, pigments, antioxidants, carbon black or silica, accelerators and other additives. These are then mixed together in a huge blender, which is called Banburys. After the mixing process is completed a gum like material forms. This material is then cut into strips. These strips will make the sidewalls and other portions of the tire.

The main body of the tire is manufactured using fabricated rubber.

Polyester, nylon and rayon are the fabrics used. The fabrics are changed depending on the type of the tire. But mostly Polyester is used. Another ring like component is used to make a tire. This is called tire bead. Steel wires of high tensile are used to make this tire bead.

Radial tires are made in a cylindrical tire-building machine. The machine almost gives the final shape of the tire. After the making of the tire, it passes through an assembling process. Tires are assembled from the inside out. The inner line of the tire is made of two layers of synthetic rubber. Then another double layer of poly fabric is pasted. Then follows two strips of apexes to harden the area. Then 2 chafer strips are then pasted. Then automatic rollers press all the parts. It helps the parts to bind. After an inspection the tire goes for curing process. In the curing process the tire is heated up to the temperature of 300F for 12-25 minutes. It gives the tire a proper shape. Then it passes through another inspection, which includes an X-ray session. If there is any fault, the X-ray session reveals it. After the inspection the tire is ready to roll.

Paul has been providing answers to lots of queries through his website on a wide variety of subjects ranging from satellite phones to acne. To learn more visit http://www.askaquery.com

When you signed on the dotted line for your new auto, it seemed
like you were on top of the world. You went shopping at the
right time, and felt like you got a steal on the price. And
then, the insurance bill came in the mail and the bottom on your
perfect little world dropped out. What happened?

People buying a new auto for the first time may not realize
this, but the bank will require them to keep full coverage on
their car for the length of the loan. Now, you can get away with
only liability coverage when you don’t finance a car - but
things work a lot differently when the banks get involved, don’t
they? You might even think that there is some sort of conspiracy
going on involving the banks and insurance companies. While it
is a good theory, the truth is that banks need to be sure that
they will get their money, so they require full coverage
insurance on a new auto. After all, who would continue making
payments if the car were all smashed up because of an accident?

But why are these rates so high?

A lot of factors are involved in determining insurance rates on
a new auto. The age of the driver, his driving record, the
number of accidents on his record, and even where he lives - all
these are factored into the rate. Because the costs of repairing
a new auto are so high, insurance companies have to charge steep
rates to recover their losses in the event of a wreck.

Isn’t there anything I can do to lower these rates?

Auto insurance on newer vehicles will be steep, but there are
things you can do to get lower rates. One of the best ways to
save money is to shop around. While all insurance companies use
statistics to set their rates, they do not all interpret these
statistics the same way. Never, ever insure your new auto with
the first company you call!

You can also raise the deductible you will pay in the event that
you wreck your new auto, and in return receive lower rates. The
higher the deductible, the lower the auto insurance premiums for
your new car will be.

Come on, what else can I do? These rates are killing me!

All right, let’s start with the obvious: Slow down. Don’t drive
your new auto like some Nascar speed demon! Tickets and moving
infractions will definitely increase the rates for your new auto
insurance. You can also try driving less, because insurance
companies consider it to be less of a risk when people drive
fewer miles with their new auto. Plus, this may increase your
resale value down the road, when it is time to buy another new
auto.

Insurance rates on a new auto, or an old one, are greatly
affected by where you live. If the rates truly bother you,
consider moving to some less populated area with a low crime
rate. Buy an alarm for you new auto, and be sure to keep it in a
garage when you sleep at night.

Is that it?

Well, there’s no guarantee that the insurance rates on your new
auto will ever be great, but you can also try improving your
credit score. Insurance companies see a correlation between
credit score and driving habits, so they tend to give better
rates to people with better credit. But in the end, insurance
for your new auto will be significantly higher than the
liability coverage you had when you were driving that “beater”
that got you through college. Hey, that’s just part of the price
you pay for driving a new auto. There are definitely ways to
improve those rates, but you’ll need to get used to the fact
that the good old days of “liability only” coverage are behind
you.

Have you seen a commercial about a Toyota car? Or the slogan for
Toyota? The car in front is a Toyota. That saying is so true
especially with the 2006 Toyota highlander. The 2006 Toyota
highlander is an SUV but with super smooth riding even when you
are off road you will not want to call it an SUV at all. When
you get into your 2006 Toyota highlander you will know that you
are going for the ride of your life.

When you are looking at any SUV you would ultimately like to
purchase one that can give you a super smooth ride. When you
take an SUV off road you want to make sure that it can handle
anything that you throw at it. But if you are a regular SUV
driver then you may know just how tough it can be on your body
if your SUV doesn’t like to drive over the smallest bump. With
the 2006 Toyota highlander you can make those jumps without any
fear, the bumps and jumps that you were to worried about before
can now become a part of your off road experience. Your previous
car may have been slightly edgy when coming up to a big jump,
but with the 2006 Toyota highlander you know that you can ride
up and down anything without concern. The 2006 Toyota highlander
demands that you go off road and that you take every jump that
you see. You are now in a SUV that demands more and more wild
jumps everyday.

When you decide that you want to buy Toyota highlander you will
of course head down to your nearest Toyota dealer and ask them
if you can test drive the Toyota highlander. This is where it
can get a bit tricky, because when Toyota made the highlander
they didn’t stop at just one highlander, instead they decided to
go for 4 different types of highlander SUVS. These SUVS are the
standard 200 Toyota highlander, the 2006 Toyota highlander
limited, the 2006 Toyota highlander hybrid and the 2006 Toyota
highlander hybrid unlimited. So that is 4 different SUVS for you
to get your brain around. Obviously each SUV carries a different
price tag and that means that you can get an SUV that will match
your budget.

A lot of people prefer to buy the 2006 Toyota highlander hybrid,
this is a sensible choice as it is the middle priced SUV. This
means that you won’t get the cheapest SUV but you also won’t be
paying for the most expensive SUV also so it is the smartest
choice to make. The 2006 Toyota highlander hybrid is as stated
the middle priced SUV out of the 4 available, but with all the
features that come with it you will think that you are getting
the most expensive one by mistake. The features that come with
it can make your head spin; with so much to take in you may
forget about the safety features. But the safety features are
there and they are there to make sure that you enjoy your brand
new SUV to it’s fullest without having to worry about the car or
yourself. If the worst does happen then you know that the safety
features will make sure that you do not suffer any serious
injury. This is a SUV that will take a bullet for you if it has
too. You cannot find a more reliable or more safer SUV. If you
are anyone you know is looking around for a SUV then send them
to a Toyota dealership and they will come out of there with a
big grin on their faces.

Most people would rather have a vehicle that would provide utmost quietness when driving. Of course, that would mean that they would not hear the hum of the machine underneath the hood or the sound of pebbles, dirt, or sand underneath the tires. For some people, even the sound of the wind could prove to be annoying for some people. And when drivers and passengers could hear the car brakes squealing each time the brake pedal is depressed, it could be the start of a headache for some people.

When brakes squeal, it could be the start of something that could prove to be damaging to your car. One of the reasons why this happen is that the brake pads bearing excessive wear. However, it could also be that there are some deposits on the brake pads like carbon metallic. The solution to this would be to actually replace the brake pad itself. However, there are other reasons why this happen and it would be a wise move to first find out what could be the cause.

If the material your brake pad is something that is not suited to the whole brake system of your Mazda, or for any other vehicle for that matter, the squealing would not stop. Try finding the right kind of brake pad that would make the noise stop.

Other reasons could also be misaligned calipers, loose calipers, pads that are not the correct size, glazed rotors, glazed pads, and warped rotors. It would be best to try to ask for assistance from a professional or from your trusted mechanic. That way, the problem could be assessed by these experts. If there are even more complex reasons as per the root of the squealing problem, they could be able to know and take care of it for you.

If there is a need for replacement of brake pads or any Mazda parts for your vehicle, there are online stores that offer quality parts that are also low-priced. Auto Parts Go is one of these and it actually holds thousands of Mazda parts for various Mazda makes and their collection include Mazda 323 auto parts, GLC parts and Mazda Tribute auto parts to name a few.

Auto Parts Go,
Mazda 323 auto parts,
Mazda Tribute auto parts,
===
Jennifer Dylan is a 35-year-old gal who hails from San Francisco. She has a habit of updating herself on new car trends and models. She spends most of her time reading up on cars and hopes to test drive them. She works for one of the topnotch car parts dealer in the U.S.

Accidents. Crashes. Collisions. Emergencies.

These could happen any time while you are driving on the road. You may not be the real reason why these happened, however, you still could be one of those parties who simply were at the wrong place at the wrong time.

With this in mind, it is important that you are always prepared for the inevitable. Being prepared lessens the worry and anxiety that such untoward events could bring upon you. Prepare some important odds and ends that you might find useful in case such things happen to you.

You can use a cardboard box or a plastic box to keep everything you would need for your emergency kit. This way, you would not have to try to locate the items in case they have rolled their way into the nooks and crannies of your car’s interior. A box would give you easy access to the items and you could easily find the things you would need.

Then, start by collecting all the items you would need to stock inside your emergency box. If you have no idea whatsoever as per the items you would most probably be needing, you can get some help by purchasing a first aid kid manual or booklet. Also, it would be best to have a first aid kit inside your emergency box. Try to include also an AAA or a roadside emergency card.

Put in everything else you would need for changing a tire. Do no forget to include a jack, a spare tire that has the right amount of air pressure in it, a lug nut wrench, a tire iron, as well as a pipe which you would be using for leverage. You could opt to put this inside your box or you can choose to let them stay in your car’s trunk which is the usual location of these items.

Other things you might want to consider stocking inside your emergency box could include a flashlight with batteries, additional fresh batteries, triangle reflectors, flares, rags, a funnel, all the necessary fluids, screwdrivers, pliers, an adjustable wrench, jumper cables, gloves, duct tape, spare fuses, and a list of contact numbers.

Mercury vehicles are just one of the vehicle makes that is included in Auto Parts Corner’s list of vehicles. To purchase Mercury parts like speed sensors, you can simply visit the site and access its wide and informative collection of such.

Tracy is a 29 year old researcher and writer from Dallas, Texas with extensive experience in writing auto-related articles and covering automotive related events. She is currently a contributing writer for a leading automotive e-zine.

Among the most venerated and strongest-selling cars from Volvo
is the Volvo 700 series. It was introduced in the 1980s
initially as replacement for the Volvo 200 models. The earlier
Volvo cars however, still generated high sales so the 700 series
became another line of Volvo vehicles. Included in the series
were the Volvo 740, Volvo 760 and Volvo 780. Each of these
vehicles flaunted excellent driving abilities and boasted the
most sophisticated safety features, making them the safest
vehicles in the market. As Volvo’s first foray in the luxury
segment, this series also featured luxurious exterior and
interior Volvo Parts.

Unlike most cars produced in the 80s, the 700 series had a low
profile, sleek and slightly rounded edges, which suggested its
highly advanced performance auto parts and exterior features.
When it comes to ride quality and handling, the Volvo 700 series
cars exhibited driving abilities that are as remarkable as their
looks. All 700 series cars were provided with turbocharged
engines, stiff chassis and sturdy shock absorbers that offer the
best performance at any driving condition. They were regarded as
the fastest diesel powered cars, a distinction that made a
lasting impression about Volvo as a quality auto maker.

The Volvo 700 series are no longer in production; they were
replaced by the Volvo 940 in 1992. However, they did not vanish
completely as they were only restyled and relaunched as a new
line of full-size rear wheel drives. Most of its drivetrain and
powertrain components and other major and minor auto parts
remained in the Volvo 940. Even today, Volvo 700 series cars can
still be seen being driven through highways and city streets all
over the country. Its sturdy body construction and hard-wearing
Volvo auto parts make it dependable and long lasting.

Driving a Volvo car such as gutsy and reliable Volvo 700 series
is indeed something to be proud of. However, having one also
requires its owner to take care of it. Its life after all
doesn’t only depend on its hard-wearing Volvo Parts and Car
Parts but as well as on how one takes good care of this vehicle.
Replacing old and worn out Volvo auto parts is a way of
preserving your old Volvo 740, Volvo 760 or Volvo 780 car. If
you are looking for new Volvo Parts and Used Volvo Parts
[http://www.carpartsone.com], make sure to get it from a trusted
Volvo Parts Performance Parts store. It is a sure way to
maximize your car’s performance, safety and convenience.

Volvo Parts - Volvo Auto Parts [http://www.carpartsone.com] is
among the thousands of Volvo auto parts stores online that
deliver the best quality replacement parts. It specializes on
Volvo Parts Performance Parts that range from auto lights to
carpets, mirrors, catalytic converter, a/c condenser, radiator
and radiator fan. To upgrade your Volvo 740’s performance, you
can change it with top quality Volvo 740 starter and Volvo 740
wheels. These Volvo replacement auto parts are sourced from the
most trusted and experienced Volvo parts makers and thus, are
guaranteed to match the highest standards in the industry.

Finding OEM-quality Volvo Parts Performance Parts need not be a
burden to you. New Volvo Parts and Used Volvo Parts alike abound
in the market nowadays and so with online stores. It’s now easy
to locate superior quality Volvo Parts for Atlanta Volvo car
users, Los Angeles Volvo car users, Seattle Volvo car users and
Portland Volvo car users. Volvo Auto Parts online dealers
usually cater to all Volvo users–from coast to coast. Wherever
you are in the country you can easily place your orders online.
However, you must be wise enough in choosing the right store and
in getting replacement Volvo Parts that are perfect for your
Volvo model. Only top quality replacement Volvo auto parts can
match your Volvo car’s excellent performance.

Symptoms of vehicular anorexia:

·Loss of power (especially noticeable going up hills) ·Decreased
mileage per gallon (whether diesel or gasoline) ·Increased
environmentally toxic exhaust emissions ·Get up and go has got
up and went

If your vehicle is experiencing one or more of these
manifestations, then you need to immediately seek help. Your
vehicle is starving to death !

But don’t point all the fingers at yourself ! I know you’ve been
faithfully binge-feeding fuel to your vehicle, thinking each
time you were pumping it back to health. But the truth is, all
automobiles, buses, trucks, boats, trains, etc., are doomed to
succumb to vehicular anorexia.

There are several causes for this ravaging disease, one of which
is engine combustion. Combustion occurs when fuel combines with
oxygen and creates energy. Energy is needed for your vehicle to
move.

According to the Fuel Economy Guide,

“Only about 15% of the energy in the fuel you put in your gas
tank gets to move your car down the road or run useful
accessories…”

The remaining 85% of the energy in the fuel is lost. However,
this is just one cause of vehicular anorexia.

The next biggest culprit is water and sulfur. Water is always
present in both gasoline and diesel fuel. A portion comes from
the atmosphere, but fuel also attracts water. Sulfur is
ever-present in both gasoline and diesel fuel. Sulfuric acid is
created by combining water and sulfur. Carbon deposits are
formed inside your engine when the sulfuric acid it is not
burned off during combustion.

The condition worsens, as unburned carbon in your engine also
leaves behind lethal carbon deposits on your spark plugs,
valves, etc., or can be forced into your oil. As carbon deposits
increasingly obstruct your vehicle’s ability to properly
function, anorexic symptoms begin surfacing.

When your vehicle does not function efficiently, it increases
toxic exhaust emissions released into the environment, which
inevitably leads to failed emission test inspections.

The ensuing demise of your anorexic vehicle is assured if left
untreated.

Is there hope? The answer is absolutely and unequivocally “YES”.

The question then becomes, do you want to take the band-aid
approach and address the symptoms individually, or administer
treatment that initiates the cure?

Temporarily alleviating vehicle anorexia results in a
smorgasbord of additional costs by replacing individual parts,
such as engine, spark plugs, points, valves, oil, etc. Additives
like dry gas, used to link water and fuel in your tank to help
prevent fuel line freeze-up, can also temporarily patch a
specific manifestation. The bottom line — treating your
vehicle’s anorexic symptoms individually is not the most
economical route to follow.

What about a cure? Is it possible to save your vehicle’s life,
put the zip back in its performance, eradicate old carbon
deposits, stop new carbon deposits, and economize on fuel
consumption?

Good news from the Fuel Doctor!

You can stop and prevent further vehicular anorexia with one
small pill — one small pill that initiates an extreme engine
makeover. Just pop a pill in your diesel or gasoline tank, and
watch the zip in your vehicle spring back to life.

As your engine feasts on this small pill, it will immediately
start eliminating old carbon deposits, prevent formation of new
carbon deposits, and drastically reduce environmentally toxic
exhaust emissions. In return, your vehicle will dazzle you with
extended life, improved fuel economy, and saved money.

**Attn Ezine editors / Site owners ** Feel free to reprint this
article in its entirety in your ezine or on your site so long as
you leave all links in place, do not modify the content and
include the resource box as listed above.

It happened back in the 70’s, but the evidence was still there. It was the case of the disappearing horsepower and this is what happened.

In the era of the muscle car power was everything. It didn’t matter what it was, sports car, family car, pickup; it had the biggest V-8 possible stuffed under the hood. Cubic inches were king and advertised power was astronomical. These cars could kick sand in the windscreens of anything else on the road.

But then horsepower seemed to disappear overnight!

Take my favourite muscle car, the Ford Mustang. The macho models had V-8s, though meeker models came with an inline six. The biggest six had 200 cubic inches and 155 hp in 1969/70.

What did the V-8s punch out? The most powerful 351 gave 300 hp in 1970 and the 427 gave a massive 390 hp in 1968. But by 1973 the most powerful Mustang had a 351 V-8 with just 156 hp. Almost half what it had in 1970, and only one horsepower more than the 200 cu in six of 1970! As for the Mustang II of 1974, we won’t even go there.

The story was similar with the other manufacturers. What was going on? It just didn’t add up. Could I trust the figures?

My detective mentor, Agatha Christie, taught me that when you’re solving a case you can’t trust anyone. Murderers do lie. In this case it wasn’t murder though it was the death of the muscle car, and it wasn’t so much of an outright lie as not telling the whole truth. And outside forces were at play.

I had to dig deeper. I had to find the facts. Why would horsepower virtually halve?

It turned out there were a few reasons. Salesmanship was one. Horsepower was everything so why not measure it in a salesman friendly way? Gross SAE horsepower was used. Power was measured at the flywheel with no power-hungry accessories attached. Only the bare essentials were used.

In 1972 SAE Net measurements were phased in. Power was still measured at the flywheel but all the accessories were installed including the full exhaust system, emission controls, all pumps and the alternator. SAE Net can’t be compared exactly to SAE Gross because there are just too many variations in measuring, but it is down around 80%. So power ratings dropped. In 1973 horsepower ratings went down again as power sapping emission controls were tightened.

Gross SAE horsepower had pushed the listed power up. So did the advertised horsepower some car companies used. What’s wrong with a little rounding up of the numbers for the brochure? Surely that would help sales too.

All this horsepower galloping around got noticed and not just by young guys.

Safety legislators noticed, and so did insurance companies who started charging more for insurance. The word on the street is that in 1967 a young guy under 25 with a clean driving record would have paid $700 a year for GTO coverage. Ouch! Some car companies lowered their advertised horsepower ratings.

Muscles peaked in 1970, and by 1971 they were starting to get flabbier. Engines were being detuned and within another year bigger engines were being dropped.

In 1973 many muscle cars were a shadow of their former selves. And they were finished off by the oil crisis of late ’73. Long lines at gas stations and soaring prices were a real shock, and so was a 55 mph national speed limit. Gas guzzlers were irresponsible, expensive and unwanted, it didn’t matter how much fun they were.

So there you have it. I now knew what had happened to all that brute power. Some exaggeration had pushed listed horsepower up. A fairer, more accurate measuring system brought it down. Emission controls brought it down more, and soaring insurance costs made ground-thumping power too expensive to own. The oil crisis finished the muscle car off. This case was solved.

Warren Newson is editor of the-classic-sports-cars.com , where you’ll find sports car articles, pictures and gifts.

Nobody looses from keeping a car taken cared of well. If you do follow maintenance schedules and do repairs well, you would not only be helping your pocket but you also would be helping the environment be greener than ever. You see, if a vehicle is well-maintained, chances are that it would be running better, safer, and more efficiently.

The engine is a very important and essential part of the whole car’s system. By keeping it tuned rightly, your vehicle would be running much smoother. In fact, if your engine has a misfiring spark plug, your vehicle’s fuel efficiency actually is cut down to around thirty percent. Thirty percent is a great amount. If there is a need to replace filters and fluids, do not hesitate to do so. In fact, it would be best to follow service schedules.

Improperly inflated tires may not be a big deal for most people, however, the sad truth behind this is that improperly inflated tires bring down your vehicle’s fuel efficiency. This could also be the start of expensive damages on your vehicle. For sure, these are some matters that you would like to avoid as much as possible. Keep your tires properly maintained and properly inflated so as not to waste those precious drops of fuel.

It is also important to keep your vehicle’s air conditioner working properly. If it needs any kind of servicing, have the work done by only a technician who is certified to do such types of duties. Make sure that you choose a qualified technician.

On the other hand, you can also do things yourself like dispose of used motor oil, change anti-freeze and coolant, check tires, and replace old batteries properly. However, do not simply dump these anywhere. There are recycling sites that handle such wastes so much so that it does not harm other people and harm the environment as well.

Mazda Parts and Mazda Auto Parts - Mazda 323 parts

——-

Kimberly Meyer is an expert when it comes to automotive issues. She is the manager of her own car parts manufacturing company. This 33 year-old maiden is also a talented writer.

Yes – I know that headline might provoke you a little bit.

That’s OK.

This article will show you how to cut your gas bill right now – TODAY – if you’ll simply pay attention to these tips and now begin using them.

Of course, you’ll probably see a few tips you might have heard before.

Why?

Because they still work, always work, and are even more important now that gas is approaching $3.50 a gallon (or more) in many places.

In fact, you might have at some point heard most of these tips before now. The real issue is “Are you faithfully doing every one of these?”

The average person is probably not doing 1/3 of them. Remember – even though some of these have a direct associated cost savings – how much ‘associated cost’ is filling your gas tank these days?

OK – let’s get started … and these tips are in no particular order …

1. Get your car tuned –
Sure – everyone tells you to do this. But have you done it? Poor tuning wastes gas. This can improve your gas mileage by 10% or more.

2. Regularly check the air pressure in your tires –
Another one you’ve probably heard before. The fellow who sold me my new tires told me that tires lose 2 or 3 pounds of air per month by themselves. Low air pressure wastes gas. Look on the door in your car for proper tire pressures, and keep it to the ‘high’ side of the range you’re given. This can be another 10% savings.

3. Regularly change your oil –
Another one you’ve probably heard. Whatever your manufacturer recommends, pay attention to it. Personally, I used to change my car’s oil every 3,000 miles. Once I switched to synthetic oil, I was told to increase the frequency between changes.

Also try to use synthetic oil. Rarely will your auto manufacturer say not to use synthetic oil, but be sure you understand before you begin. Synthetic oil costs more, but lasts longer, and reduces friction in your engine better. You’ll treat your engine better while getting higher gas mileage. In my car, now I go 6,000 miles between oil changes instead of 3,000, and enjoy all the other benefits for basically the same cost.

4. Carefully plan your errands –
This is one tip lots of people miss, and it ties into another tip below. Basically, don’t run any errands that aren’t mandatory today. Put them off till you need to do them.

Use the phone when you can, instead of driving somewhere. Avoid high–traffic hours, days, and other times of congestion (see below.) Add in errands when they are part of your regular daily commute to and from work.

5. Try to avoid rush hour –
I’ll get some heat on this one. If your employer allows flex time, investigate that. Otherwise, if it helps you to go to work 15 minutes early and/or leave 15 minutes ‘later’ – do it, even if you don’t get paid for the time.

Why?

You can either sit in traffic, get frustrated, use your gas for nothing, and maybe even overheat your car … or you can sit like a ‘dedicated employee’ at work and be comfortable. This one can save you perhaps 25–50% of your gasoline by itself.

6. Always turn right when possible –
I hadn’t thought of this one before I read it somewhere. Consider that when you turn left, you sit in the turn lane and wait for a break in the traffic or the light to change. In many places you can turn right on red, and you’re not turning ‘against’ the traffic when you turn right. This tip takes some thought, but can make a significant difference in time and gas savings.

7. Try to keep your car clean –
It’s more fun to drive when it’s clean, and removing all the caked on dirt makes your car ‘slicker’ – which reduces drag by a little bit. This tip is better for appearance than big gas savings.

8. Change all your car’s fluids –
Go to a local oil change place and tell them to change every fluid in your car – not just your oil. This includes all engine fluids, radiator, transmission, axle grease, etc.

9. Read popular car magazines for even more tips –
Most of the popular car magazines offer gas–saving tips these days. Read the front covers and tables of contents to find the best articles for you.

10. Try to drive downhill –
As silly as this sounds, when possible drive downhill instead of uphill so gravity powers your car instead of gas. I tried it, and within reason you can at times make this happen. A small tip, but a tip nonetheless.

11. Don’t race up to stop lights and turns –
I’m amazed every day as people who blaze past me just in time to slam on their brakes at the red light up to which I’m coasting or the turn I’m approaching. Why in the world would you speed up to a place that requires a full stop? Baffles me …

12. Don’t blast off the line –
Smart people say to act like there is an egg between your foot and the gas pedal. Don’t race away from a stop, and don’t stomp on the gas pedal except to avoid an emergency situation (only if safety permits.)

13. No lead foot –
This goes with #12 above. In general, be easy on your gas pedal. Use the least amount of pressure to attain and maintain your desired speed. And try to keep a steady pressure instead pushing in, pulling back, etc.

14. Time the red lights –
Pay attention to traffic lights from as far away as your eyes permit, and try to adjust your approach speed so you get there when it’s green and you don’t have to stop.

15. Don’t speed –
For all the reasons you already know, as well as for safety and gas usage, don’t speed. Ever. Obey all the speed limits. In general, the slower your speed, the less gas you use.

16. Don’t burn your clutch on hills –
Your clutch is not designed to be your brake. When you burn your clutch on a hill, you trash your clutch and burn extra gas. Also, don’t sit at red lights with your clutch pedal in, as that also toasts your clutch, shortening its life.

17. Don’t block intersections –
This is mostly just decent manners, but you also create a traffic jam for everyone, wasting everyone’s gas – not just yours.

18. Don’t drive 10 miles out of your way to save a penny a gallon –
Think about this … if your gas tank holds 12 gallons, is empty, and you drive all over the place looking for the best deal on gas, you save twelve cents if you find it for a penny cheaper per gallon. It costs you more than that just to find the cheaper gas.

19. Stay in the right (slow) lane –
To keep the speeders off your tail – and keep yourself safer – stay in the right (outer) lane on 4–lane roads so the speeders can have the faster (left inside) lane.

20. Use your imagination –
If you’ll give these tips some thought – and put forth a little effort – you’ll not only cut your gasoline bill by as much as half … you’ll also come up with your own ways to further reduce your costs to operate your car.

These tips WILL reduce the amount of gas you burn. Period. The rest is up to you. If you want it bad enough – it’s here for you, and you’ll be able to discover other ways to save even more money once you start paying attention to these tips.

Chip Tarver

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Chip Tarver knows that you NEVER get a second chance to make a
first impression. That’s why he wrote “First Contact Secrets.” Listen
to the giants of Internet Marketing teach you how they make first
contact with people they want to do business with. Just model their
success and success will become yours! Learn more now at …

www.FirstContactSecrets.com/ …
www.FirstContactSecrets.com/blog …
www.FirstContactSecrets.com/publicity-blog/ …
www.FirstContactSecrets.com/Articles.htm …
www.Free-Targeted-Traffic.com/ …

(c) 2005 - 2022 Chip Tarver and FCS …
“The B2B Relationship and Product Launch Pro”